In 2013, a young law student named JD Vance and his then-girlfriend Usha packed their bags for a classic, budget-conscious road trip around Great Britain. They weren't political royalty yet. They were just two Americans looking for old things.
What they found at Caernarfon Castle in North Wales didn't just give them a cool vacation photo. It triggered a profound shift in how the future US Vice President viewed time, faith, and the sheer scale of human history.
In his memoir Communion: Finding My Way Back to Faith, Vance points to a single afternoon standing on the medieval walls of Caernarfon Castle as a central moment in his spiritual journey.
The Moment on the Castle Walls
Americans are notoriously bad at processing truly ancient history. If a building in Ohio survived the American Civil War, we put a plaque on it and call it a historic landmark.
Vance admits to this exact bias. Writing in his book, he notes that his family home in Cincinnati was built in the late 19th century and regarded as ancient by local standards. At Yale, the oldest campus structures date back to the 1700s.
Then he stood on the ramparts of Caernarfon.
Built by Edward I in the late 13th century, Caernarfon Castle was already centuries old before English boots ever stepped onto American soil. Standing on the high stone walls, looking down at the boats bobbing in the harbor and the narrow streets of the medieval town below, Vance felt an overwhelming sense of insignificance.
"The coolest thing I've ever seen, and it's not particularly close."
- JD Vance to Usha over a pub breakfast
This wasn't just tourist awe. It was an existential awakening. He realized that for nearly a thousand years, young people had stood on those exact stones, watching the sun hit the water, completely oblivious to the future or the smallness of their own lifetimes.
Beyond the Tourist Glare
The typical tourist route in the UK often begins and ends with the obvious heavyweights: London, Stonehenge, Edinburgh Castle. But Vance argues that the real magic of travel happens when you push past the predictable itineraries.
- Conwy Castle: After leaving Caernarfon, Vance and Usha explored Conwy, another jaw-dropping fortress built during Edward I's campaign in Wales.
- The "No-Plan" Rule: This trip sparked a lifelong vacation philosophy for the couple: actively seeking out places where other international tourists don't go.
Scepticism and the Power Line Story
No political memoir release goes completely smoothly, and Vance's reflection on his Welsh holiday has drawn plenty of raised eyebrows online.
Specifically, critics are highly sceptical of an anecdote Vance shares about meeting two local utility workers near a downed power line in rural Wales. According to Vance, the workers recognized him because they were dedicated British conservatives who regularly read his articles in American conservative magazines.
Given that this trip took place in 2013—years before Hillbilly Elegy made Vance a household name—political commentators and internet sleuths have cast doubt on the likelihood of rural Welsh line workers recognizing an obscure American law student.
Whether you believe the utility worker story or chalk it up to memoir embellishment, it doesn't change the physical reality of the Welsh landscape. The castles of North Wales have a unique power to make anyone feel small, regardless of their political leanings.
How to Experience North Wales Like an Expert
If Vance’s spiritual awakening has you eyeing a trip to the Welsh coast, don't just book a standard tour bus. You need to do it right.
Start with the "Iron Ring" of Edward I
Caernarfon and Conwy are part of a formidable chain of castles built to establish English dominance in Wales. They are masterpiece examples of medieval military architecture.
- Caernarfon Castle: Famous for its polygonal towers and bands of colored stone, designed to echo the walls of Constantinople.
- Conwy Castle: Remarkably preserved, with eight massive towers that still dominate the town's skyline.
- Harlech Castle: Perched high on a rocky crag overlooking the Irish Sea, offering some of the most dramatic views in the country.
Ditch the Car in the Towns
The narrow, winding streets of medieval Welsh towns weren't designed for rental SUVs. Park outside the town walls and walk. You'll find hidden pubs, local bakeries selling fresh Welsh cakes, and views of the stone battlements you'd miss entirely from behind a windshield.
Expect the Unexpected
Vance famously recalled eating a "full English breakfast" in a pub while sitting in the heart of Wales. It's a classic tourist mistake that locals will gently mock you for. If you want to show some respect for the local culture, ask for a traditional Welsh breakfast featuring laverbread (a savory seaweed paste) and cockles.
What to Do Next
If you want to understand the physical spaces that influenced Vance's transition from secular intellectual to religious conservative, your next step is simple.
- Map out the North Wales coast: Look closely at the geography around the Menai Strait and the Snowdonia mountains.
- Read the broader context: Check out the historical significance of Caernarfon Castle, which has served as a symbol of royal power for generations, including the 1969 investiture of King Charles III as the Prince of Wales.
- Plan a visit off-season: If you want to experience the quiet, time-stopping solitude that Vance describes, visit in late autumn or early spring when the crowds have cleared out and the Atlantic wind makes the stone walls feel truly ancient.
